China & the Yangtze: Beijing, Xi'an, Three Gorges & Chengdu

Yes — the gorges are still extraordinary. The 175-metre rise in water level changed the scale (broader, calmer) and removed some shore settlements, but the essential drama of 1,200-metre cliffs rising from the river is completely intact. The Shennong Stream and its hanging coffins, the Wu Gorge fog and the Qutang Gorge's power are all still there. The dam tour itself is a fascinating addition — this is genuinely one of the world's most ambitious engineering projects.

We use premium river cruise ships — not the oldest vessels that cheap tours use. Cabin size is approximately 25 square metres with a private balcony, air conditioning, en-suite bathroom and daily housekeeping. The dining room serves a combination of Chinese and Western food. There is a sun deck, a lounge and a small library. It feels more like a boutique hotel that happens to move than a conventional river boat.

Yes — the ship primarily moves at night to maximise daytime viewing of the gorges and shore excursion time. You fall asleep in one gorge and wake up in another. The movement is very gentle and most guests sleep better than they expect.

The Shennong Stream is a tributary of the Yangtze with narrow walls rising vertically above the water. Traditional narrow wooden sampans take small groups (typically 6–8 people) up the stream for approximately 2 hours. The hanging coffins — wooden coffins placed by the Ba people in cliff-face niches 200 metres above the water 2,000 years ago — are visible along the way. How they were placed there remains genuinely unknown.

Yes — this is the most coherent structure we've found for combining China's greatest sites. Beijing and Xi'an anchor the imperial history, the Yangtze connects north and south geographically and historically, and Chengdu provides the natural contrast. The high-speed train and domestic flights keep travel time to a minimum.

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are ideal. The spring water level is higher, adding drama. Autumn is clear, slightly cooler and avoids summer humidity. Summer (June–August) is hot and the river is at peak water level. Winter (November–February) can produce beautiful mist but the cruise ships often pause operations.