Angkor and beyond — the Cambodia few travellers find

The 05:30 entry through your guide's advance booking means you reach the inner galleries before tour groups arrive. The reflection in the lotus pond turns gold as the sun rises over the central tower.

The 12th-century state temple at the heart of Angkor Thom has 216 giant stone faces smiling from 54 towers. At dawn with mist between the towers, the effect is otherworldly.

Strangler figs have grown through the gallery walls and their roots buckle the sandstone. The effect is dramatic and the temple is designed to remain partially unrestored.

A community-approved boat trip to a floating village of 3,000 people — school, police station, petrol station and restaurants all on the water. The guide introduces you to residents.

The Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and National Museum are all within walking distance of the riverside promenade. French-colonial architecture, excellent cafes and a vibrant street food scene.

The two sites that document the 1975–79 genocide with accredited guides from the Documentation Centre of Cambodia. A half day that is difficult but essential for understanding the country.

Morning market visit to identify the key herbs and fermented pastes before preparing amok trei (steamed fish curry), lok lak (wok-tossed beef) and banana blossom salad.

The outer temples of Angkor see a fraction of the Angkor Wat visitors. Preah Khan's axial galleries, draped in lichen, and Neak Pean's island sanctuary are extraordinary on a quiet morning.

Original acrobatic shows performed by graduates of a social enterprise arts school — physically extraordinary, with Cambodian folk stories told through contemporary circus.

The silk island in the Mekong north of Phnom Penh is reached by a short ferry. Family workshops use traditional looms and natural dyes — you can see the whole process from cocoon to cloth.