How big Petra really is
Petra is not a single building you walk up to; it is a vast archaeological city spread across a desert valley, and being honest about its scale is the kindest thing we can do before you arrive. From the visitor entrance, the walk down through the Siq to the Treasury is roughly 2km, and it is mostly a gentle downhill on the way in.
Beyond the Treasury the site opens out into a wide valley with a great deal more to see, including the street of facades, the Royal Tombs and, far beyond, the Monastery. You do not need to see all of it. Many of our travellers are completely content reaching the Treasury and exploring the main valley a little, and that alone is a remarkable day.
The key is to treat Petra as a place to pace rather than to conquer. Knowing the distances in advance lets you decide, calmly and in your own time, how far you would like to go.
The Siq and the Treasury
The Siq is the dramatic narrow gorge that leads into Petra, with towering rock walls rising on either side. It is one of the most atmospheric walks anywhere in the world, and it is also one of the easier ones: the path is largely flat to gently downhill on the way in, and the high walls keep much of it pleasantly shaded.
At the end of the Siq, the Treasury reveals itself through a narrow gap in the rock, and it is every bit as breathtaking as the photographs suggest. Reaching this point is achievable for most travellers in their seventies who can manage a steady walk of a couple of kilometres.
The one thing to plan for is the return. The way out of the Siq is a gradual uphill back to the entrance, and after a full day it can feel longer than it did coming in. This is exactly where a little help, taken without any fuss, makes all the difference.
Getting help: horses, carts and donkeys
You do not have to walk every step of Petra, and there is no shame whatsoever in accepting help. A horse-drawn carriage can carry you through much of the Siq, which is a lovely way to save your legs for the sights themselves and a particular relief on the uphill return.
Small golf-cart-style buggies also run between the entrance and the Treasury area, offering another straightforward way to cover the distance without the long walk. We will always be honest about which option suits the day, and we can arrange a ride for the return leg even if you would rather walk in.
Donkeys and mules are available too, chiefly for the climbs further into the site. They are not for everyone, and we will never press you, but it is reassuring to know the options exist so the day can flex around how you are feeling.
The optional climbs (and skipping them)
Two of Petra's famous viewpoints involve serious climbing, and both are entirely optional. The Monastery, known as Ad-Deir, sits at the top of more than 800 steep, uneven steps, and the High Place of Sacrifice is reached by a steep ascent of its own. They are magnificent, but they are not for everyone, and there is no need to feel you have missed Petra if you leave them out.
For those who would still like to try, donkeys are available to carry you a good part of the way up to the Monastery, which takes the hardest work out of the steps. We will give you a frank view of what each climb involves so you can decide with clear eyes.
Above all, please hold on to this: the Treasury alone is a worthy and complete visit. Many travellers reach it, take their time in the main valley, and go home thrilled, having climbed nothing more than a few steps.
Heat, timing and a two-day visit
Petra sits in the desert, and the heat is the single biggest thing to plan around. We aim to start early, when the Siq is cool and shaded and the light on the Treasury is at its best, and to be off the most exposed stretches before the midday sun. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons to visit, avoiding both the high summer heat and the cold desert nights of deep winter.
This is also why we are great believers in giving Petra more than a single rushed day where the itinerary allows. A second visit lets you go gently, see the parts you saved, and never feel you are racing the clock or the sun.
It also opens up the quieter pleasures: Petra by Night, when the Siq and Treasury are lit by hundreds of candles, is unmissable and asks very little of your legs, while nearby Little Petra offers a gentler, less crowded taste of the same extraordinary rock-cut world.
How we arrange it
Petra is included on our private escorted Jordan tours, with a knowledgeable local guide whose job is partly to read the day and pace it around you. They will set an unhurried rhythm, build in rests in the shade, and arrange a carriage or buggy whenever you would like one, all without making a fuss of it.
Our Jordan tours now include UK flights, are ATOL protected for your peace of mind, and start from under £2,300 per person. We grade each day by pace, Easy, Steady or Active, so you always know what a day at Petra will ask of you before you set off, and can choose how far you wish to go.