South Korea in a Week: Seoul & Gyeongju

Soo-Yeon meets you at Incheon International Airport — around eleven hours' flight from London — and transfers you by private car into the heart of Seoul, to the Josun Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel in the Gangnam district. After the long flight, the rest of the day is yours: a rest, an unhurried walk near the hotel, or simply a first Korean meal in the hotel's restaurant. In the early evening, if you are inclined, Soo-Yeon joins you for a gentle welcome dinner of bulgogi and an array of banchan side dishes at a refined restaurant nearby, with an early night to follow.

A full but unhurried day in the historic heart of Seoul. The morning belongs to Gyeongbokgung, the grandest of the city's five royal palaces — the throne hall of Geunjeongjeon, the floating Gyeonghoeru banquet pavilion on its lotus pond, and the changing of the royal guard ceremony at the great Gwanghwamun gate, performed in full Joseon-dynasty costume. After a Korean lunch, a gentle stroll through Bukchon Hanok Village, the hillside neighbourhood of traditional tile-roofed hanok houses where aristocratic families once lived, with views down over the curving rooftops to the palace and the city beyond.

This morning, the loveliest of Seoul's palaces: Changdeokgung, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, prized above the others for the way its halls and gates follow the natural contours of the land rather than imposing upon them. Behind the palace lies the Huwon, the Secret Garden — the private royal retreat of pavilions, lotus ponds and ancient trees, entered only on a timed guided walk that Soo-Yeon arranges in advance. After lunch, the antique shops, calligraphy studios, paper galleries and traditional tea houses of Insadong, where you can pause over a cup of citron tea and watch the artists at work.

A morning with a choice. For those who wish, Soo-Yeon accompanies you on an optional half-day excursion to the Demilitarised Zone at the edge of the city — the tense, strangely moving border with North Korea, taking in the Imjingak peace park and an observatory looking across the frontier. For those who prefer a gentler morning, the time is free to rest, revisit a favourite corner or enjoy the hotel spa. The afternoon brings the bright energy of Myeongdong, Seoul's famous shopping and street-food quarter, where the evening lights come on and the food stalls fill the lanes.

A relaxed morning before Soo-Yeon transfers you to Seoul Station for the KTX, Korea's high-speed bullet train, which glides south at over 300km/h to reach the Gyeongju region in barely two hours — comfortable, quiet and entirely seated. On arrival, a private transfer to the Lahan Select Gyeongju, beautifully set beside Bomun Lake. The afternoon is gentle: a first easy walk by the lakeside or simply time to settle in before this evening's quiet introduction to the old Silla capital.

A full day among the treasures of the Silla kingdom, all at an unhurried pace. The morning is given to Bulguksa Temple, the masterpiece of Korean Buddhist architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site — its stone terraces, twin pagodas and serene halls set against wooded hills. After a Korean lunch, the grass-covered royal tombs of Gyeongju, the great green mounds of the Daereungwon Tumuli Park, where you can step inside one excavated tomb to see the golden crown and treasures of a Silla king. The day ends, perfectly, at Anapji (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond) at dusk, when the reconstructed pavilions and their reflections glow on the still water — one of the loveliest sights in all of Korea.

A leisurely final morning in Gyeongju — perhaps a last walk by Bomun Lake — before the KTX carries you back to Seoul in the early afternoon, comfortable and seated as before. On arrival, Soo-Yeon transfers you to your hotel for a final night in the capital. The evening is yours: a last Korean dinner, a return to a favourite Insadong tea house, or simply an early rest before tomorrow's journey home.